|
The origins of crewel will probably
always be lost. There is some evidence that the Greeks and the Romans
used wool to embroidery with. Fragments have been found in North
Mongolia showing a face of a nomad warrior, dating to about the 1st.
Century BC. Biblical references are made to curtains, altar clothes,
and other hangings. These were embellished with wool embroidery that
decorated Jewish tabernacles. Crewel was popular in England from
400 AD to 1400 AD.
It seems wool embroidery has been
around for centuries. However, the word crewel or cruell referred to
the wool yarn and not the style of embroidery Crewel is an old Welsh
word meaning "wool." Traditionally heavy wools were used,
but today there is a wide variety of yarns to choose from, depending
upon the desired effect.
At one time crewels were a two-ply,
tightly twisted or worsted wool yarns. Fine embroideries were worked
and manufactured during the Middle Ages. Silk on silk, linen, wool and
linen canvas was very popular at the time of Elizabeth I. Very little
was worked with wool alone.
It wasn't until the reign of James I,
the first quarter of the 17th Century, that much of the exotic designs
we know today were created and refined. Some evidence shows this was
caused by the increase in trade between East India company of India
and England.
Much of the traditional style of
crewel also came from the manufacturing of steel needles in England.
Even though steel needles had been used in Germany for 150 years, it
was the greater supply of less expensive needles, in England that
greatly contributed to the wide spread popularity of crewel in this
era. Most popular were wall and bed hangings. The unheated stone
castles and wood structures of that time were cold, drafty, and
basically unpleasant to the eye. Anything that would add to the warmth
and charm of the home was greatly appreciated. Many other items were
embroidered and cherished as well; table carpets, seat covers, bed
spreads.
Queen Elizabeth was a highly regarded
embroideress and did much to formalize embroidery. During the
Elizabethan times most embroiders came from the highest social
circles. In 1561 Queen Elizabeth granted a charter to the Broiderers'
Co., also known as the "Keepers and Wardens and Society of the
Art and Mistery of the Broderers of the City of London." These
craftsmen(yes, they were all men) were the broiderers of some of the
great pieces from this time period. At the completion of each piece it
was presented to the Guild Hall for inspection to receive the guild's
seal of approval. If the piece did not meet the rigid requirements, it
was cut up and burned!
James I came into power in the early
seventeenth century. In the formal Latin tradition of that day, he was
called Jocobus Brittaniae Rex. From this name crewel became known as
"Jacobean Embroidery." Most of the 17th century was lavished
with crewel embroidery. However, near the end of this century the
favor of silk embroideries took precedence over wool. Crewel was of
little interest in the 18th century.
In America, embroidery was for the
wealthy only. The settlers had other priorities in developing this new
land. There was farming, spinning, weaving, sewing, candle and soap
making were only some of the basics that took much of their time. It
was necessary to work pieces that were more for the home rather than
to wear. Pieces much as rugs and quilts were in higher demand. From
this time grew a new era of embroider, it was known as the "Blue
and White" era. The woman had to card, spin, weave, and dye their
own flax. Supplies were not readily available so these women had to
grow their own indigo plants to dye the wool. The white came from the
natural color of the wool. As more became available, the American
women developed a unique style of their own. Crewel was back in full
force. Girls as young as six were making samplers. By their teens they
had become experienced needleworkers.
Then again in the early 18th century
crewel was replaced with many other forms of needlework. By the end of
the century it was back once more. Schools were established in London
and New York creating a new revival of crewel.
Crewel design elements that came out
of this time include the tree of like, billocks, imaginative flowers,
huge leaves and small animals. As America was establishing itself,
colonists search for ways to decorate their homes. The settlers found
it easy to create their own fabrics and dyeing home spun yarns. From
this a new style of easier and more elegant crewel became a truly
American technique.
Unfortunately, changes in lifestyles
caused crewel to be obsolete. In 1898, a short lived revival brought
crewel back. Only to fade once again. But once more the new century
brought a loss to this art. The war of 1914, the emancipation of
women, WWII, and TV were only a few of the activities that preoccupied
women's time. By the mid 1900's Crewel or creative stitchery was
revived again. The use of cotton, linen, silk, gold, silver, feathers,
jewels, buttons, beads and anything a stitcher wishes to use is only
limited by her own mind.
Traditionally, linen is the best to
use but any material that is firmly woven and the threads separate
easily when sewn. However, lightweight cottons such as muslin or
percale are not suggested, because the material will pucker when sewn
with heavy wools. Cotton twill weave was used in the 18th century.
Linen and cotton twills were hand woven. With a smooth surface and a
slight diagonal rib was a wonderful contrast to the worsted thread.
Occasionally, the linen twill was brushed creating a raised nap and a
softness to the touch. This process originated in Fustat centuries ago
and became known as "fustian," quite likely the origin of
velvet. Brushed wools, acrylic and nylon fabrics are excellent for
crewel embroidery and contrast well with the wool threads. Modern
stitches do prefer all natural fabrics, but don't allow your
imagination to be limited by others. Crewel can be worked in silk,
mercerized cotton, wools or metal threads. Traditional crewel was
painted on linen with very fine stitching - today the possibilities
are unlimited. There are no traditional crewel stitches just basic
embroidery stitches.
|
